"Wow! Wow! WOW!!! The three principal environments in Peru are coastal desert, high mountains (and here I mean HIGH, as in really, really HUGE!), and jungle. But there is also everything in between from pine forests at 2000m to the incredible expanses of golden Pampas grasses on the "Altiplano", way above the tree line, starting at 3,000m and up for there. Our highest point was 4,900m, and still we were dwarfed by the giant peaks all around. Amazing is too weak a word for it. AWESOME is often a word that is over-used. This was truly that. We soaked them all in: the landscapes, the perfect roads, 30,000 corners in 3345km of motorcycling heaven. From sea level to 4,300m over 80km. From -5 c at 7am, to 35 c at noon. You need to be ready for extremes, heat, cold, dry, humid, clean countryside, filthy cities. Peruvian drivers drive on the right. Usually, mostly, except when they're on the left. On the curvy mountain roads, they signal left for you to pass. When they want to turn left, they don't signal at all, in case you think "let's go". If they want to pass, or pull out on you, they just do. No matter if you have to take evading action. Size does matter! When they beep you, it's to say "Hey Gringo, thanks for visiting Peru". It is considered polite to beep back! Peruvians are the MOST gentle, warm, smiling, kindly, generous, welcoming and engaging people ever. Everywhere we went we were greeted with warm curiosity, a gratitude for visiting their poor country, and an insatiable curiosity about us as people: what did we do? Why were we in THIS little village? How much did the GS1200 cost? And, the most frequent question of all: how fast does it go? We were offered hospitality and conversation wherever we went. At Chinchero we were swept into a local wedding party as though we were lifelong family friends. The BMW GS1200 was the IDEAL tool for the job, spoked wheels and Sat Nav essential tools to navigate: street signs and directional signposts are rare. Out of the 3354km we rode, perhaps 300 were off road. Note some of the roads marked as paved, are NOT! Be prepared for off-roading. All part of the experience. The hotels were all charming, ranging from 2-star salt-water showers in Puerto Inka, to 4-star luxury in Hotel Aranwa in the Colca Canyon. The food ranged from good to excellent: TripAdvisor gave good advice in each town as to what places to choose, and which to avoid. The only place I will be happy never to go back to is Juliaca. As cities go, it's Peru's equivalent of Kolcata or Nairobi: polluted by permanent traffic gridlock. Avoid if possible. If not possible to avoid, go eat at the Karaoke bar / Polleria (like a sort of KFC) on Plaza de Armas... What the food is lacking in, the joy of the youngsters belting out their favourite pop songs makes up for in happiness. From 100m sand dunes in Huacachina, to the Nasca lines in the desert, to high mountain villages where the best lunch was pop-corn (the best I've ever had!h and grapes, by the river, shared wi the local kids that had never seen a blonde except on TV... From the jungle lodge in Quince Mil, to Puno and Lake Titicaca, from the Inca capital of Cusco to the tourist throngs of Macchu Picchu, we more than enjoyed very minute of this odyssey. GO! Go, go! What are you waiting for? Just do it!" |
- Rory Aitken from the U.K. after clearly enjoying his exploration of Peru on one of our BMW R1200GS rentals. With sentiments like this, perhaps more people will finally venture into the Andes Mountains of Peru on one of our motorcycle rentals!